How to Get Rid of Rats in Your Chicken Coop (and Keep Them Out)

ByImaginAcres Updated onDecember 12, 2025

This post may contain affiliate links, which means that I may receive a commission if you make a purchase using these links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Rats in the chicken coop? Learn how to get rid of rats, protect your flock, and rat-proof your coop with practical tips that actually work, plus what to avoid.

Rats are an unfortunate reality in most urban and suburban areas. And if you keep chickens, chances are you’ll cross paths with them sooner or later. Backyard chickens offer everything a rat could want: food, water, and cozy shelter.

When we brought home our first flock, we did everything we could to prepare. We read the books, built a secure coop, and felt ready for anything. Or so we thought. What we didn’t expect was a rat invasion.

We didn’t know it at the time, but our chicken coop had become a magnet for rodents. And while one rat might not seem like a big deal, it doesn’t take long for a small problem to grow into a full-blown infestation. Rats don’t just steal feed, they spread disease, dig tunnels, prey on young chicks, and can even injure adult birds.

We tried just about everything to get rid of them. Some things worked. Others… not so much. In this article, we’re sharing what finally helped us kick rats out of our coop for good and keep them from returning.

The Unwelcome Visitors

It started with a strange rustling just after dusk. At first, I thought it was the wind rattling the metal feed bin. But when I looked closer, I saw something dart out from beneath the coop, a blur of fur and a long tail disappearing into the shadows.

We saw the first rat around our coop about a week after we moved our teenaged birds into it.

That was the first rat.

Over the next few days, the signs became impossible to ignore. Droppings near the feeder. Missing eggs. My chickens were jumpy, especially at night, and something was clearly off. Then we discovered tunnels had been dug right underneath our fencing and into the chicken run, where we kept an endless supply of delightful chicken feed for them to feast on, and boy, were they feasting.

As much as I loved my little urban homestead, I realized I was now dealing with a rat invasion.

If you’re here, you may be in the same situation, wondering how to get rid of rats in your chicken coop, how they got there in the first place, and how to make sure they never come back. Rats can do serious damage, from eating feed and eggs to spreading disease and even harming baby chickens.

In this article, we’ll walk through how to spot a rat problem, eliminate it safely, and rat-proof your chicken coop for good using effective solutions that won’t put your flock at risk.

Do Chickens Attract Rats?

Let’s get this one out of the way first: chickens don’t actually attract rats, at least not by themselves.

Rats aren’t interested in your flock because of their charming personalities or fancy feathers. What really draws them in is the easy access to food, water, and cozy hiding spots. In other words, a well-stocked chicken coop can look like an all-inclusive resort to a rat.

Back when we first brought chickens into our backyard, we had no idea how appealing their setup would be to unwelcome guests. We thought we were doing everything right: giving them plenty of space, feeding them on a schedule, and tucking them in at night. But we made one big mistake: we left feed out overnight.

It didn’t take long for the word to get out in the rodent world. A spilled scoop of grain here, a few crumbs near the feeder there, it was like laying out a buffet. And once the rats arrived, they made themselves right at home, burrowing under the coop and even nesting in the compost pile we had too close to the run.

The truth is that chickens don’t attract rats. We do, by accident, when we make food and shelter easy to access. The good news? That means there’s a lot you can do to prevent and get rid of rats, starting with some simple changes to how you manage your coop.

Are Rats Dangerous to Chickens?

When we first spotted a rat near the coop, I wasn’t thrilled, but I also wasn’t overly concerned. After all, I figured the chickens were bigger, louder, and not exactly pushovers. Surely, they could hold their own, right?

Well, I was wrong.

Rats may seem small, but they can cause serious problems in and around your chicken coop. They’re not just stealing a little feed here and there. They’re contaminating food and water with droppings and urine, spreading disease, and, in some cases, attacking vulnerable birds. Unfortunately, we lost baby chicks to rats, and found hens with mysterious wounds after a night of rat activity.

Here’s what rats can do once they’ve settled in:

Steal feed and eggs: Rats are opportunists and will happily help themselves to whatever food they can carry off.
Injure or kill chicks: Young birds are especially vulnerable. Rats can snatch sleeping chicks or pullets right off the roost.
Chew through materials: Wood, insulation, chicken wire, nothing’s safe from a rat’s sharp teeth.
Tunnel and nest: They’ll dig under your coop, build nests in dark corners, and even move into your compost bin.
Spread disease: Rats carry parasites like fleas, lice, and mites, as well as pathogens like salmonella, leptospirosis, and other nasty diseases that can be transferred to your flock.

Once rats show up, they rarely leave on their own. Like most pests, if they find what they need to survive: food, water, and shelter, they’ll stay. That’s why it’s so important to act quickly to get rid of them and make your chicken coop a place they don’t want to return to.

Signs You Have Rats in the Chicken Coop

Sometimes the signs are obvious, like catching a rat red-handed, scampering across the yard. But often, it’s the subtle clues that give them away. Rats are sneaky, nocturnal creatures who usually do their dirty work after dark. You might not see them at first, but if you know what to look for, the evidence starts to pile up.

Here are some of the most common signs you’ve got rats in or around your chicken coop:

Small droppings: Rat poop is about the size and shape of a raisin, about 1/2 to 3/4 inches long, dark, shiny when fresh, and often found near feeders, along walls, or in corners.
Burrow holes or tunnels: Check around the base of your coop and run. Rats dig neat little holes about 2 to 4 inches wide, often with a worn path leading to them.
Gnaw marks: Rats chew constantly to keep their teeth in check. You might find gnawed corners on wood, holes chewed into feed bags, or even bite marks on coop fencing.
Missing or cracked eggs: If you notice fewer eggs than usual or find broken shells in strange places, rats could be to blame.
Disturbed bedding or nesting material: Rats sometimes steal straw or feathers to line their nests, especially if tunneling nearby.
Noises at night: If you’re close enough to hear it, listen for scratching, squeaking, or rustling after dark.
Startled or nervous chickens: Your flock might act jumpy or unsettled, especially at night. Chickens can sense when something isn’t right.

Back when we were dealing with an infestation, it felt like we were playing detective. Every morning, we’d find more evidence: new droppings near the feeder, bedding missing near the back wall, or a suspicious tunnel leading under the pen. By the time we confirmed what was happening, the rats had already settled in.

If you spot more than one of these signs, it’s time to take action. The sooner you deal with a rat problem, the easier it is to get under control.

Preventing Rats in the Chicken Coop

If you’ve confirmed that rats have moved into your coop, don’t panic, but don’t wait, either. A few rats can quickly become a full-blown infestation if they find enough food, water, and shelter. The key is to act fast, stay consistent, and approach the problem from several angles at once.

I will walk through a three-part strategy that’s worked for us and many other chicken keepers: Sanitation, Exclusion, and Elimination.

Safety first: When dealing with rat traps, droppings, or tunnels, always wear gloves and consider wearing a mask when cleaning up contaminated areas. Rats can carry bacteria, viruses, and parasites that may pose a risk to you and your flock.

Let’s get started with the first and most important step: cutting off their food supply.

Step 1 Sanitation: Clean Up Food and Shelter

When we first realized we had a rat problem, I’ll admit, we thought the traps would be the solution. But we quickly learned that you can’t trap your way out of a rat infestation if you’re still feeding them every night.

Sanitation is the first and most important step to getting rid of rats. If you take away their food and make your coop a less comfortable place to hang out, they’ll have no reason to stick around.

Here’s how to get started:

Store feed properly: Use metal storage bins with tight-fitting lids to hold your chicken feed. Rats can chew through plastic and cardboard like it’s tissue paper. Keep the bins inside if possible, and check regularly for chew marks or droppings around the base.
Remove food at night: If you’re free-feeding or leaving food and water out overnight, you might as well hang a “Welcome Rats” sign on your coop. Offer food and water during the day and remove it at night, or switch to a rat-proof feeder like a treadle-style model that only opens when a chicken steps on it.
Collect eggs daily: Rats love eggs. Make sure you’re gathering them at least once a day, and watch for signs of cracking or eggs being moved from the nest. Rats will sometimes roll them to a safer spot.
Tidy up scraps and spilled feed: Clean up any leftover food scraps and any chicken feed that gets kicked around.
Limit cozy hiding spots: Rats look for dark, undisturbed areas to nest. Piles of lumber, old straw, unused corners of a shed, it’s all real estate to them. Do a cleanup around your coop, remove clutter, and trim back brush or tall grass.
Remove access to compost: It wasn’t just the chicken food drawing rats to our backyard, but the open-air compost pile as well. We moved all the compost into steel garbage cans with tight-fitting lids. Rats can’t chew through steel, so that took away one food source.

By tightening up our feed routine and keeping the coop and yard cleaner overall, we saw a noticeable drop in rat activity even before we set a single trap. Make your coop less of a buffet and more of a dead end, and you’ll be well on your way to solving the problem.

Step 2 Exclusion: Seal Entry Points

Once you’ve cut off the rats’ food supply, the next step is to keep them out for good. Rats are clever, persistent, and shockingly flexible. They are able to squeeze through holes as small as a quarter. If there’s a way in, they’ll find it.

I learned this the hard way when I discovered a tunnel that started outside our fenced-in yard and ended under the chicken pen. They weren’t just passing through. They had moved in.

Luckily, when we built our coop, we included a layer of hardware cloth in the floor, windows, and air vents. However, that left our run vulnerable. We replaced our run walls with hardware cloth and instantly noticed fewer chew holes and attempts to break in.

Here’s how to rat-proof your coop and run from the ground up:

Use hardware cloth, not chicken wire: Chicken wire keeps chickens inside but doesn’t keep predators out. They can chew through it easily with their sharp teeth. For anything that needs to be rodent-proofed, use 1/4-inch galvanized hardware cloth. It’s tough, chew-resistant, and lasts a long time.
Seal all gaps and holes: Inspect your coop for cracks, loose boards, or gaps around windows, vents, and doors. Use metal flashing, hardware cloth, or sturdy wood panels to close up any spots larger than 1/2 inch. Don’t forget to check under the nesting boxes and corners where walls meet the floor.
Bury hardware cloth around the run: If rats are burrowing, dig a trench around the outside of your run and bury hardware cloth at least 12 inches deep. Some keepers lay it flat in an “L” shape underground, pointing out away from the coop. So when rats dig, they hit the wire and give up.
Raise the coop: If your coop sits directly on the ground, consider raising it up several feet to discourage anything from hiding underneath.

Rats are survivors. They’re always looking for their next safe hideout. By sealing up entry points and blocking off access to your coop and run, you make it clear: this neighborhood’s closed for business.

Step 3 Elimination: Trap or Repel Rats

Once you’ve cleaned up the coop and sealed off their entry points, it’s time to deal with any rats still hanging around. Unfortunately, they won’t just pack up and leave politely. They’ll stick around as long as they think they’ve got a shot.

We learned this firsthand when, even after cutting off their food supply, we still heard rustling near the coop at night. That’s when we knew we had to bring out the traps.

Here are the most effective ways to safely and humanely eliminate rats from your chicken coop:

Use Snap Traps Outside the Coop

Classic snap traps are still one of the most effective tools against rats. They’re cheap, fast, and work as long as your chickens can’t get to them.

Place traps outside the coop, near burrows, run edges, or along walls where you’ve seen signs of activity. Bait them with peanut butter, sunflower seeds, or a smear of chicken feed mash. Check and reset them daily.

Set multiple traps at once for best results, and move the traps around every few days. Rats are smart, and if one disappears, the rest get suspicious.

We had the best luck placing traps in a box made of plywood with a hole small enough for a rat to enter but not a chicken or curious cat.

What Didn’t Work for Us

Over the years, we’ve tried just about every rat control method you can imagine. Some worked great. Others… not so much. Here are a few things that didn’t work for us and why we don’t recommend them:

DIY Bucket Traps

At first, these seemed like the perfect homestead solution: cheap, simple, and often praised in backyard chicken groups. But in practice? They caused more problems than they solved.

They weren’t very effective. The rats quickly learned to avoid them, or didn’t fall in as expected.

When they did work, we were left with a live rat in a bucket… and no easy option for what to do next. Relocating them isn’t really a solution. Rats are territorial and often find their way back (or become someone else’s problem). The only option was killing them in the bucket. We ended up feeling more frustrated and conflicted than relieved. We moved on to other methods.

Avoid Poisons and Sticky Traps

It’s tempting to go for the quick fix, set some bait, walk away, and let the problem “solve itself.” But we strongly discourage the use of poisons and glue traps, especially around chickens and other animals.

Here’s why:

Chickens can accidentally ingest poison either directly or by pecking at a dying rat.
Pets and kids are also at risk, especially if they find bait or a weakened rodent.
Wildlife suffers too. Raptors, like owls and hawks, often die from secondary poisoning after eating a rat that consumed bait.
Sticky traps are inhumane. They cause prolonged suffering, and non-target animals (like small birds or reptiles) can get caught unintentionally.

There are plenty of effective, safer alternatives. And while they may take a little more effort, they’re worth it for the well-being of your flock and the surrounding ecosystem.

How to Keep Rats Out of the Coop Long-Term

Once you’ve cleared out a rat infestation, the last thing you want is to go through it all over again. We learned that lesson the hard way. After weeks of trapping and reinforcing the coop, we eased up a little, and within a month, the signs were back. A single overlooked tunnel was all it took for the rats to return.

The good news? A few smart habits and coop upgrades can keep rats from coming back. Here’s how to make your chicken set up a whole lot less appealing to rodents in the long run:

Remove all food at night: Leaving food out 24/7 is one of the most common reasons rats take up residence. Once we started feeding our chickens during the day and removing feed at night, the drop in rat activity was immediate. Use a rat-proof feeder (like a treadle feeder) if you can’t remove feed at night, and clean up any spills around the feeder daily.
Store feed securely: Keep your chicken feed in metal bins with tight-fitting lids. Rats can and will chew through plastic. Once they know the food is there, they’ll keep coming back. Keep feed bins off the ground, if possible. Regularly inspect storage areas for signs of gnawing or droppings.
Raise the coop: Rats love nesting under buildings, and a coop that sits flat on the ground is prime real estate. Raising the coop even a foot off the ground makes it harder for rats to nest and makes it easier for you to spot problems.
Maintain a clean perimeter: A messy yard provides rats with endless hiding spots. Keep grass and weeds trimmed around the coop and run. Avoid piling up scrap wood, unused tools, or garden waste near your chickens. Relocate compost bins away from the run, and use secure, enclosed containers if possible.
Keep traps set even after the problem seems gone: It’s smart to leave a few snap traps around the outside of the coop area at night as a long-term prevention strategy. Rotate bait types and trap locations every few weeks to outsmart curious newcomers. Check them regularly, even if you’re not catching anything. Rats are cautious and may take a few days to investigate.
Encourage natural predators (safely): If it fits your homestead lifestyle, barn cats or dogs can help keep the rat population under control. We didn’t set out to have a “rat patrol,” but a neighbor’s outdoor cat quickly became a valued partner in our rodent-fighting efforts. Our dog also became great at barking and chasing out anything that didn’t belong in the yard.
Do regular coop inspections: Make it part of your routine to walk the perimeter of your coop and pen to check for new holes or tunnels and signs of digging. It takes just a few minutes, and catching a problem early can save you weeks of cleanup later.
Install a coop camera to keep an eye on things: A simple motion-activated camera can help you spot rat activity before it becomes a full-blown problem. We were surprised to see just how much action was happening after dark.

With a little maintenance and a watchful eye, you can keep your coop rat-free for the long haul. Prevention is always easier than elimination, and your chickens (and your feed bill) will thank you.

Rat-Proofing Your Chicken Coop: Structural Tips

If you’re building a new chicken coop or upgrading an existing one, this is your chance to rat-proof it from the ground up. We didn’t realize how many gaps and weak spots we had until the rats moved in. But once we started making intentional structural changes, the difference was night and day.

These improvements can go a long way toward keeping rats out for good:

Choose Rat-Resistant Coop Flooring

If your coop sits directly on the ground, rats can easily chew through wood or tunnel under dirt floors. Choosing the right base is one of the best long-term defenses.

Best options:

Concrete slab: The gold standard. Rats can’t dig through it, and it’s easy to clean.
Elevated wooden floor: Raise your coop at least 12–18 inches off the ground. This deters nesting underneath and improves airflow. Use concrete blocks or pressure-treated posts to support the floor and prevent moisture damage. This makes it easier to clean, too and gives your chickens a shady spot to dust bathe.
Hardware cloth under the floor: If you’re building a wood-floor coop at ground level, lay ¼-inch hardware cloth flat beneath the floor joists as you are framing. This creates a tough barrier rats can’t chew through.

Reinforce Walls, Seams, and Corners

Rats can squeeze through holes as small as ½ inch and they love to chew.

Inspect where the floor meets the walls, this is a common entry point.
Seal small gaps with steel wool and expanding foam, then cover with galvanized flashing to keep chickens from pecking at it.
Patch larger holes with hardware cloth or plywood, screwed down tight. Don’t just staple it, rats can pry staples loose.

Secure All Doors, Windows, and Vents

Every opening is a potential entry point, even the tiny ones.
Install secure latches on all coop doors. Loose panels can be nudged open by determined rodents.
Cover windows and vents with ¼-inch hardware cloth (not chicken wire), and make sure it’s fastened securely on all sides.
We ended up screwing our egg retrieval door closed. There were too many gaps around the door and nest boxes. It was just as easy to gather eggs from the main door.

Stop Burrowing with a Hardware Cloth Skirt

To keep rats (and other pests) from digging under your coop or run, install a hardware cloth barrier underground.

Dig a trench about 12 inches deep and 8 inches wide around the perimeter.
Lay hardware cloth vertically, or use an L-shaped configuration, down and then outward like a shelf.
Backfill and tamp the soil well.

This simple trench can make a huge difference in keeping out burrowers.

One-Time Fixes That Last

These structural upgrades might seem like big projects, but many are one-and-done improvements that offer peace of mind for years. Once we raised our coop, sealed up the walls, and reinforced the perimeter, the rats didn’t stand a chance, and they haven’t been back since.

FAQs About Rats and Chickens

Over the years, we’ve received numerous questions regarding the relationship between rats and backyard chickens. Many are from folks dealing with their first infestation and wondering what’s normal, dangerous, and what actually works. Here are some of the most common concerns, with answers based on both experience and research:

Do chickens attract rats?

Not directly. Rats aren’t interested in the chickens themselves. They’re after the feed, eggs, and cozy shelter your coop provides. With good sanitation and proper food storage, you can keep rats away.

Can rats hurt or kill chickens?

Yes, especially for chicks and smaller birds. Rats have attacked and killed several of our baby chicks. They also go after young birds, roosting hens, and even steal eggs. Additionally, they can carry diseases that may spread to your flock.

Do chickens eat rats or mice?

Sometimes. Chickens are surprisingly fierce when it comes to small critters, and they’ve been known to kill and eat baby rats or mice. But this is more a curiosity than a reliable pest control method. Don’t count on your flock to handle a full infestation.

What’s the best rat-proof chicken feeder?

Treadle feeders are a great option. They stay closed unless a full-sized chicken steps on the platform so rats (and wild birds) can’t get in. Look for sturdy, all-metal designs with minimal gaps.

Will rats come back once they’re gone?

If conditions are right, yes. That’s why prevention is key. Seal holes, keep food secure, and inspect regularly. Don’t wait for signs of rats to reappear before you take action.

You Can Beat the Rats

If you’re dealing with rats in your chicken coop right now, I want to reassure you that you’re not alone and can get rid of them.

It might take some time, a bit of elbow grease, and a few creative tricks, but with persistence, you can kick those unwanted guests to the curb and keep your flock safe, healthy, and stress-free.

We’ve been there. We’ve seen the gnawed feed bags, the stolen eggs, and the mysterious burrows leading straight into the coop floor. But we’ve also come out the other side wiser, better prepared, and a whole lot more determined.

Take it one step at a time:

Cut off the food and clean up.
Seal every entry point you can find.
Trap what’s left and then keep it from coming back.

Your chickens deserve a peaceful, pest-free coop. And you deserve the peace of mind that comes with knowing the rats have moved on for good.

Note: This post was originally published on November 1, 2013, and updated on June 20, 2025, with everything we’ve learned through trial and error and plenty of late-night rustling near the coop. We’ve added new tips, tools, and long-term strategies to help you keep your flock safe (and rat-free) for good.

You May Also Like: